До свидания, Нижний Новгород!

In about 15 minutes I will be heading out the door to catch my 4:00am bus to the airport. I can hear the young couple I've been living with beginning to stir, even though I've insisted they don't have to walk out with me. They have been very kind these past 2 months and we had one final, long conversation over tea this evening.

There have been many ups and downs, as there always is with language learning, but I pack my final things a bit sad, but also grateful to have lived in another part of the world and to carry the memories with me.

I'll most likely add a few entries once I return, but I hope this was a good way go share a bit of the experience with those who were interested at home. Всего доброго!

Where two or more tourists are gathered, there a church is likely to be...

This past weekend, after final exams, I had the opportunity to spend a weekend in Suzdal, near the city of Vladimir, within what is referred to as the Golden Ring of Russia. The Golden ring is a series of some of the oldest cities in Russia, located northeast of Moscow, which played prominently in the early history of Russia and formation of Russian Orthodoxy. Russian Orthodoxy came into its own after the fall of Constantinople and its leaders saw Russia as the continuation of the Christian empire.

Suzdal dates back to 1024 and is particularly well-known for its numerous churches and monasteries. The town is now mostly a tourist village, but still maintains a beautiful sample of Russian churches and the countryside. The first 3 pics are from Suzdal, the last 2 from the city of Vladimir.

Matryoshkas, oh my!

A matryoshka doll or a Russian nested doll is a set of dolls of decreasing sizes placed one inside the other. A set of matryoshkas consists of a wooden figure which can be pulled apart to reveal another figure of the same sort inside. It has, in turn, another figure inside, and so on. It's orgins in Russia are said to have derived from a similar tradition of nested dolls in Japan. A few weeks ago I visited a local factory which produces matryoshkas en masse. It was interesting to see the full process - from wood carving, to drawing the faces, to the final painting. However, there was something disconcerting about being surrounded by so many of them at one time - perhaps an irrational fear of the dolls coming to life and waddling after me!

Globalization? - 2

One place that I could not avoid going during my time in Nizhny Novgorod was the new mall (only half complete) across from the apartment complex in which I lived. The mall is named "Fantastika" and features two main stores"OBI"and "Real," along with housing a few smaller clothing, jewelry and clothing stores. OBI is complete replica of HomeDepot, and you can notice for yourself the distinctive orange decor and warehouse interior.







On the left, is the other large store "Real," roughly the equivalent of a Walmart with food and
clothing. The questions remain, what do these

stores mean for the future of Russia? Do they adapt to local tastes? Can we really say there is something distinctive American or Russian about them? And, finally, do they represent anything less Russian than what are considered more traditional forms? (Remember the "metryoshka" or nested doll, originally was inspired by a Japanese tradition.)

Finally, some graffitti from the wall near the university I attended. Strange I walked passed it for weeks without noticing. The Russian translates as "Love who you want!" and the images speak for themselves.

Москву! Москву! Москву!

04-06/vii/2008: Weekend trip to Moscow - overlapped with 4th of July weekend. Not the most traditional way to celebrate the Independence of the U.S.A., but there is something to be said for traveling from one of the most closed cities of the former Soviet period (Nizhny Novgorod) to the capital of Moscow.

When Napolean surveyed Moscow from Sparrow Hills he remarked, "There it is at last, this famous town...Are they abandoning all this?" Almost 150 years later, Stravinsky returned to the country of his birth and went to that same spot. It is recorded that he was "silent and more moved" than ever before.

I traveled with much excitement, for when I lived in Turkmenistan, Moscow was often on our minds. All roads once led to Moscow and most of Central Asia is still dependent on its connections to that city. In the end, contemporary Moscow seemed mostly the product of the Soviet period (and the architecture that went along with it) and the emerging market economy now dominating Russian cities. This is, of course, the impression only after a few days.

There are the major sites to see, which remain impressive. Just after seeing Lenin's tomb and while we were in the middle of Red Square, a nasty storm swept in and we took refuge in ГУМ

(formerly the main goods store of the Soviet Union, now converted into a mall - It's the bottom right-hand picture).

Like St. Petersburg there is construction everywhere in Moscow. What this will mean in the long run is unclear. I've never been one to support the proposition that development inherently leads to a better way of life. But one thing is certain, all roads in Russia will continue to lead to Moscow for many years into the future. It is the spiritual and physical "center" of Russia and decisions made there will shape the furture of Russia and its people.

Globalization?

In what ways do we think of globalization - econonmic, cultural? To what extent do the financial benefits of globalization threaten indigenous and/or traditional ways of life - whether that be lingustic, religious, or other? And, how do we begin to define indigenous and/or traditional ways of life?

McDonald's and Coca-Cola are certainly the two most ubiquitous exports of the United States, but does their presence in another country signal the cultural invasion of America? I'd love to read some comments. I'll be posting more pics and thoughts on this in the next week...

Kazan-2

In addition to the post below, I add a few pictures and comments on language in Kazan. While Russian is without a doubt the main language of daily interaction in the street, Tatar is still preserved, spoken in homes and all official signs are posted in both languages. I noticed many similarities between Tatar and Turkmen: (a) in the grammar structure and (b) in the lexicon. Of course, unlike Turkmen, Tatar has remained in the Cyrillic alphabet. It is interesting to consider the future development of Tatar, since to be Russian implies to speak Russian. Many national groups find language as a rallying point for independence (i.e., the Kurds), but for now the Tatar nation is content to remain a part of the Russian Federation.

(President of the Republic of Tatarstan)

Tatar (People's Library of the Republic of Tatarsan)

Kazan-1

27- 29/vi/2008: Weekend trip to Kazan, the capital of the Republic of Tatarstan. East of Nizhny Novgorod along the Volga river. From the moment of entry I felt a different air about the city. Exploring the winding roads and walking under the rising minarets and church towers, this felt like a Russia more closely linked to its Asiatic roots. There is a Russian proveb: "Scratch a Russian and you'll find a Tatar."

Of course, the Mongol tribes did not appear by invitation. Rather they invaded the territories known as Rus (or Kievan Rus) in the mid-13th century. Tension continues even today between the nation which considers itself "Russian" and the other "Tatar". Another proverb, "An uninvited guest is worse than a Tatar" is sometimes changed today to "An uninvited guest is better than a Tatar."

Kazan offered a unique blend of Russian and Tatar culture, architecture and people. Upon arrival, I visited several mosques. Two of which I was permitted to enter, and at the third a very politie Uzbek apologetically denied me entry since I was not Muslim. He was an older man and we spoke at some length - about his being from Tashkent (and my visit there), life in Turkmenistan, and life for Uzbeks in Russia. Quite touchingly he concluded by saying that he was very honored to have met an American - something he never thought would happen in his lifetime. I doubt, however, I live up to whatever idea he has of such a person... There are a large number of Uzbeks currently living in Kazan.

The mosque in the picture (Qol-Şarif mosque) below was recently renovated (as was the whole Kremlin) through UNESCO funding. The various structures in the Kremlin were built throughout the 15th and 16th centuries. It is quite beautiful from a distance, but the entire renovation has a bit of a plastic-like quality to it. It is obvious that it is now a tourist attraction and used for ceremonial purposes only. As a consequence, it is hard to imagine the communities that once lived within its walls. I suppose it is only possible to get a fleeting feeling for such things during one's travels.

On the road

This weekend I will be visiting Kazan, the capital city of the Republic of Tatarstan. More updates from Nizhny and that trip when I return next week...

(Flag of Kazan)

Shashlik

Last weekend Dima, Ksusha (the host couple with which I am staying) and two American friends relaxed on the bank of the Volga. It was a much appreciated day of rest after a series of excursions to various museums in the area. Dima grilled the shashlik, kebabs popular in Russia and across Central Asia (and very tasty!). Lisa (the family dog) enjoyed playing in the water. Pics below:

Enjoying a picnic on the Volga.

Dima patiently keeping an eye on the shashlik.

Lisa swimming.

The Volga

Updates - finally! Sorry for the delays.

Two weeks ago our group took a short boat trip along the Volga. This afforded a wonderful panaromic view of Nizhny Novgorod and its environs. We had beautiful weather and the pleasant company of several students from the Linguistic University. As part of the choir, a mix of Russian and American songs (lots of Beatles) could be heard from our boat. Below are some pictures:

View of kremlin walls from Volga River.

Industrial bank of Volga River

A mix of Russian and American songs

View from the Window

No matter where I have traveled one of the first things I often do upon arrival is set up my desk or small work station. Space is important to me because I often lose or forget things - an organized area helps keep me on track and maintain some sense of familiarity amidst the extraordinory. The most important aspect to a good desk for me is a window with a good view nearby. I still remember several of my desk spaces at Notre Dame (the best being my senior year and a good view across sports fields that are now becoming homes to new residence halls). My desk in Turkmenistan looked through the veranda into our enclosed court yard and modest garden. Unfortunately my desk in DC is rather limited in view since I reside in a basement apartment. Here in Nizhny Novgorod, on the 11th floor of an old Soviet apartment building, the Volga stretches across my view.

Posted here are two pictures from the view of my window. You can see the large apartment buildings, which one friend on this trip commented look as if they are falling back into the earth. Or that the earth is reclaiming them, vines and trees growing into the cracks of deteriorating cement.

Regardless of what is happening along its embankment, the Volga River continues to flow past. Thursday I will have the opportunity to take a boat ride and observe Nizhny from a distance. More to come from that....

добро пожаловать в Нижний Новгород!

After nearly a week I have finally reached Nizhny Novgorod (N.N.), the city in which I shall study and live these next two months. N.N. is situated about 250 miles east of Moscow, located at the point the Volga and Oka River meet. It reminds me in some ways of my home town of Pittsburgh and our three rivers. The old Kremlin and the major section of the modern city are built at the point where the Oka flows into the Volga. Another major section also spans along the opposite side of the Oka River.

I will be living with a young couple (actully 2 years younger than I!) in a comfortable apartment only about 15 minutes via bus from the university. Both strike me as gentle people, Dmitri a manager at a firm, Ksenia finishing her university degree and looking for a job. I look forward to more interesting conversations as my Russian improves. For now I do much listening and we have been discussing the basics of books and movies.

With this, my second host family experience, I'm noticing that same initial process of getting to know one another and become familiar with one anothers' routines - all without the ability to express some of the most important points through language. I am again impressed by the patience of the host couple to simply let things happen and through our bumping into one another sketch out a plan to co-habitate the same space.

Today I also strolled around the town, but first had to buy a sweater. It's been very cold since my arrival (~8C/50F), but we should be getting up to ~16/60 soon. Under a very cloudy sky, I walked around the town's Kremlin and also around the main shopping area. Local shops stand side-by-side with Puma and Addidas shops. Pizza stands can also be found (including Sbarro), along with a good number of cafes and bars.

Tomorrow morning lessons will begin. Pictures of Nizhny and other interesting (I hope) tales to come.

Peter's City

Legend holds that Peter the Great arrived on the barren marshlands where the Neva river runs into the Baltic Sea in 1703. He was looking for a site to build a fort to defend against the Swedes. As he approached the coast he dismounted from his horse and cut two strips of peat, arranged them in a cross and declared, "Here shall be a town." (See Ch. 1 of Orlando Figes' Natasha's Dance for more on St. Petersburg). Peter, who had traveled throughout Europe in his youth - Amsterdam, England, France, Italy, was determined to connect what he viewed as a provincial land with the great empires of Europe. He brought back designers and eventually imported materials to construct his Venice on the Baltic Sea.

Today St. Petersburg is a shadow of any glorious past it may have once enjoyed. Three grand prospekts burst forth from the Admiralty and run the length of the city. What would it have felt like to ride in horse and carriage along these routes below the towering buildings? Of course, via bus or car the effect is less intimidating, but nonetheless there is a bit of the greatness still pushing down on one's spirit as he or she walks along Nevsky Prospekt.

Compared to other cities of the former Soviet Union, St. Petersburg still maintains a prominent place. It is far more developed than many areas and far more international. English is, for good or for bad, everywhere. In fact, I make this post from a McDonalds next to the hotel. And, throughout the city major renovations are occuring. Amidst the many billboards and posted signs one that could fit quite well would be "Rocciya, budet skoro!" (Russia, coming soon!)
Attached with this post is a slideshow of images from the city. Many were taken from a boat ride along the canals and on the Neva River. As this is the time of year during which "White Lights" occur, the excursion at 10pm was still an ideal time for taking photos. Let me know your impressions.

I leave tomorrow for Nizhny Novgorod via Moscow. More from there...

A Preface by Pushkin

This evening I shall finally depart for St. Petersburg via Frankfurt. Two days of orientation are at an end in the U.S.A., two more to occur on the Neva River. Then one additional flight via Moscow to Nizhny Novgorod.

Despite some initial frustrations, this slow transition is helpful (a) after a long semester and (b) to slowly transition out of English and into Russian. We are asked to take a Russian-only pledge, with the few exceptions being an evening read to refresh and email/blogs. I'm still unsure of how this blog will develop, but perhaps as the details of the program become more obvious, so will my thoughts. For now I leave you with the dedication of Alexander Pushkin's poem "Eugene Onegin," since all things Russian should now become the focus of these entries...

Heedless of the proud world's enjoyment,
I prize the attention of my friends,
and only wish that my employment
could have been turned to worthier ends -
worthier of you in the perfection
your soul displays, in holy dreams,
in simple but sublime reflection,
in limpid verse that lives and gleams.
But, as it is, this pied collection
begs your indulgence - it's been spun
from threads both sad and humoristic,
themes populor or idealistic,
products of carefree hours, of fun,
of sleeplessness, faint inspirations,
of powers unripe, or on the wane,
of reason's icy intimations,
and records of a heart in pain.

P.S.: Pictures will be added soon.

The Road

Nearly 40 years after their original publication and almost a decade before millions would become enthralled with the Lord of the Rings Triology, I encountered my first copies of Tolkien's works. As a young middle-school child, I become enthralled with what Peter S. Beagle describes as a world that Tolkien did not create, but one he discovered. Fantasy and sicence fiction (two separage genres) can provide release from overwhelming childhoods and difficult adult-like burderns, can stretch the limits of our imaginations and challenge our capacity to create within our own limited time and space. Such genres provide political commentaries, encapsulate religious mythologies and, as should always be the case, gift us with a good story to enjoy.

It seems only fitting that this blog begin with mention of "The Old Walking Song," introduced in The Hobbit (originally entitled There and Back Again) and appears again in The Fellowship of the Ring. When I travel, it is often on my mind, pushing me to pursue what lies over the next hill or around the next bend....

The Road goes ever on and on
Down from the door where it began
Now far ahead the Road has gone
And I must follow if I can,
Pursuing it with eager feet,
Until it joins some larger way
Where many paths and errands meet.
And whither there? I cannot say.

My hope is that you will enjoy this blog, consisting primarily of updates about my most recent trip to Nizhny Novgorod, Russia. I will also try to post a few comments from stays in Turkmenistan and Greece - though these may have to wait until I return to the U.S.A. in August. I look forward to receiving comments and providing responses as best I can.

Enjoy!