27- 29/vi/2008: Weekend trip to Kazan, the capital of the Republic of Tatarstan. East of Nizhny Novgorod along the Volga river. From the moment of entry I felt a different air about the city. Exploring the winding roads and walking under the rising minarets and church towers, this felt like a Russia more closely linked to its Asiatic roots. There is a Russian proveb: "Scratch a Russian and you'll find a Tatar."Of course, the Mongol tribes did not appear by invitation. Rather they invaded the territories known as Rus (or Kievan Rus) in the mid-13th century. Tension continues even today between the nation which considers itself "Russian" and the other "Tatar". Another proverb, "An uninvited guest is worse than a Tatar" is sometimes changed today to "An uninvited guest is better than a Tatar."
Kazan offered a unique blend of Russian and Tatar culture, architecture and people. Upon arrival, I visited several mosques. Two of which I was permitted to enter, and at the third a very politie Uzbek apologetically denied me entry since I was not Muslim. He was an older man and we spoke at some length - about his being from Tashkent (and my visit there), life in Turkmenistan, and life for Uzbeks in Russia. Quite touchingly he concluded by saying that he was very honored to have met an American - something he never thought would happen in his lifetime. I doubt, however, I live up to whatever idea he has of such a person... There are a large number of Uzbeks currently living in Kazan.The mosque in the p
icture (Qol-Şarif mosque) below was recently renovated (as was the whole Kremlin) through UNESCO funding. The various structures in the Kremlin were built throughout the 15th and 16th centuries. It is quite beautiful from a distance, but the entire renovation has a bit of a plastic-like quality to it. It is obvious that it is now a tourist attraction and used for ceremonial purposes only. As a consequence, it is hard to imagine the communities that once lived within its walls. I suppose it is only possible to get a fleeting feeling for such things during one's travels.
icture (Qol-Şarif mosque) below was recently renovated (as was the whole Kremlin) through UNESCO funding. The various structures in the Kremlin were built throughout the 15th and 16th centuries. It is quite beautiful from a distance, but the entire renovation has a bit of a plastic-like quality to it. It is obvious that it is now a tourist attraction and used for ceremonial purposes only. As a consequence, it is hard to imagine the communities that once lived within its walls. I suppose it is only possible to get a fleeting feeling for such things during one's travels.
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